In Japan’s most spirited drinking prefecture, there’s a place where strangers become friends over straw-seared bonito, whale cutlets, and ice-cold beer — starting at breakfast
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The Most Sociable Prefecture in Japan
Every country has a region famous for its drinking culture. Scotland has its whisky, Bavaria its beer halls, and Bordeaux its wine. In Japan, that place is Kochi Prefecture — the wild, Pacific-facing corner of Shikoku island where drinking isn’t just a pastime but an art form, a social ritual, and arguably the foundation of the entire local identity.
The numbers tell part of the story: Kochi consistently ranks at the top of Japan’s per-capita alcohol consumption. The prefecture also leads the nation in the frequency of year-end and New Year parties. However, what truly sets Kochi apart isn’t how much people drink — it’s how they drink together.
What Is “Okyaku”?
In Kochi, the word for a party or banquet is “okyaku.” While the term literally means “guest,” it has evolved to describe the entire banquet itself — and the philosophy behind it is radically different from the reserved, hierarchical drinking culture found elsewhere in Japan. At an okyaku, strangers are always welcome. In fact, growing up attending parties where unfamiliar faces are always present is so normal in Kochi that locals develop an almost genetic inability to be shy. Wedding invitations sometimes include a blank space where guests can write how many extra people they’re bringing — because in Kochi, the more the merrier is not a saying but a way of life.
Kenhai and Henpai: The Art of Sharing Sake
The heart of okyaku culture lies in two customs: “kenpai” (offering your sake cup to someone) and “henpai” (returning the cup). In practice, you approach someone at the party — a friend, a colleague, or a complete stranger — and offer them your personal sake cup filled with sake. They drink it, refill it, and hand it back. This exchange continues back and forth, deepening conversation and connection with every pour. Before long, people are wandering freely between tables, cup in hand, and nobody remembers where they originally sat.
Then there are the drinking games. The most famous is “beku-hai,” which uses specially shaped sake cups — a long-nosed tengu, a round-faced okame, and a pursed-lipped hyottoko — each designed so they cannot be set down on the table. Once you pick one up, you must drink everything inside before you can put it down. A spinning top determines which cup you receive, and when the tengu lands on you (the largest cup by far), the entire table erupts in laughter.
Alongside these drinking rituals came “sawachi ryori” — large platters of elaborately arranged dishes including sashimi, sushi, grilled fish, and seasonal delicacies, all served on a single massive plate. This communal dining style was born specifically so that women wouldn’t need to leave the table to serve food during an okyaku, ensuring everyone could participate equally in the festivities.
This is the culture that produced Hirome Market — a place where Kochi’s extraordinary social drinking traditions have been distilled into a space that anyone can experience, any day of the week, starting from early morning.
Hirome Market: Okyaku for Everyone
Hirome Market opened in 1998 on the site of the former estate of Fukao Hirome Shigeaki, a respected family elder of the Tosa Domain who served four generations of feudal lords during the Bakumatsu period. Even after the estate disappeared following the Meiji Restoration, locals continued to call the area “Hirome Yashiki” (Hirome Estate) out of affection. When the market was built to revitalize the local shopping district, it took his name — and his spirit of generous hospitality.
Today, Hirome Market is a sprawling indoor food hall with approximately 60 shops spread across seven themed zones including “Oshiroshita Hiroba” (Castle Town Square), “Ryoma-dori” (Ryoma Street), and “Igosso Yokocho” (Stubborn Man’s Alley). The market offers roughly 430 shared seats where you can eat anything purchased from any shop. There are no reservations, no assigned seating, and no pretense — just long communal tables where tourists, office workers, retirees, and families sit side by side, sharing food and conversation in the most natural way possible.
In essence, Hirome Market is an okyaku that never ends. The same culture of welcoming strangers, sharing food communally, and drinking with joyful abandon plays out here every single day. If you want to understand what makes Kochi fundamentally different from the rest of Japan, this is where you start.
What to Eat at Hirome Market
Katsuo no Tataki — The Soul of Kochi Cuisine
No visit to Hirome Market is complete without eating katsuo no tataki (seared bonito). The most famous shop is Myojinmaru, which catches its own bonito from single-line fishing boats and sears each piece over blazing rice straw right before your eyes. The result is a dish with a smoky, charred exterior and a raw, ruby-red center — sliced thick and served with garlic, ginger, and sea salt from Kuroshio-cho. Watching the flames leap three feet high as the chef works the straw fire is a performance in itself.
Another beloved spot is Yairo-tei, equally famous for its katsuo and known for its friendly staff who speak to customers in warm Tosa dialect. Both shops also serve “aosa-nori tempura” (deep-fried sea lettuce), which is crispy, fragrant, and pairs perfectly with cold beer.
Kochi’s Fearless Delicacies
Kochi’s food culture reflects its wild Pacific coastline, and Hirome Market is the best place to try dishes you simply cannot find elsewhere in Japan. Utsubo no karaage (deep-fried moray eel) is one of the market’s signature dishes — despite the eel’s fearsome reputation as “the gangster of the sea,” its meat is surprisingly delicate, with a texture similar to high-end fugu (pufferfish) and skin that melts into rich collagen. Shikoku’s Chinmido shop and Tsukasa Shokudo both offer excellent versions.
Whale meat is another Kochi specialty with a long local tradition. You can try kujira katsu (whale cutlet), kujira no tataki (seared whale), and even rare cuts like “obake” (tail meat) and “onomi” (tail base). Senmatsu, the market’s dedicated whale specialist, offers an extraordinary range of preparations.
For adventurous eaters, look for “noresore” (translucent baby conger eel served raw), “chambara-gai” (a local shellfish you eat by pulling the meat out with a toothpick), and “dorome” (raw baby sardines served fresh).
Yatai Gyoza: Kochi’s Late-Night Legend
In Kochi, the traditional way to end a night of drinking is with yatai gyoza (street-stall dumplings). Hirome de Yasubei carries on the tradition of the original Yasubei, a legendary street stall that has been serving dumplings since 1970. These gyoza are smaller than what you’ll find elsewhere in Japan, with a filling heavy on vegetables — cabbage, Kochi-grown garlic chives, and ginger — wrapped in a thin skin that’s fried until golden and almost crispy enough to shatter. As their red sign proudly declares: “Street stalls, gyoza, and beer are Kochi’s culture.”
Sweet Finish: Ice Cream Like Grandma Made
End your meal with “ice kurin,” Kochi’s beloved old-fashioned ice cream. Lighter and less creamy than modern ice cream, ice kurin has a refreshing, sherbet-like texture that dates back to the Meiji era. The most famous shop in the market is 1×1=1 (pronounced “ichi kakeru ichi wa ichi”), whose cryptic mathematical name has become an iconic Kochi brand. Available in flavors from classic vanilla to matcha and yuzu, it’s the perfect palate cleanser after a heavy meal.
How to Enjoy Hirome Market
The System
Hirome Market works like a giant food court with one important difference: the atmosphere. Here’s how to navigate it like a local.
First, secure your seats. Especially on weekends, finding a table can be challenging, so claim your spot before ordering food. Once seated, explore the market’s aisles and order from whichever shops catch your eye. Each shop has its own counter where you order and pay individually. When your food is ready, carry it back to your table — or in the case of busy shops like Yasubei, give them your table location and they’ll deliver it. After eating, you can simply leave your dishes on the table. Staff regularly circulate to clear plates and wipe down surfaces, although dish return stations are available throughout the market if you prefer to clean up yourself.
When to Visit
The market opens at 8:00 AM on weekdays and Saturdays, and at 7:00 AM on Sundays, closing at 11:00 PM daily. Individual shop hours vary, so not everything will be available at opening time. That said, this is Kochi — some shops start serving beer from the moment they open, and you’ll find locals enjoying their “beer morning” as early as 8:00 AM without a trace of guilt. For the most authentic experience, weekday lunchtime (11:00 AM to 2:00 PM) captures the spirit of Kochi’s daytime drinking culture. Weekend evenings are the liveliest, though finding seats becomes significantly harder.
If you sit at a communal table, don’t be surprised when the people next to you strike up a conversation. This isn’t awkward small talk — it’s okyaku culture in action. Kochi locals are famously outgoing and genuinely curious about visitors. A smile, a “kanpai!” (cheers), and maybe offering to share a dish is all it takes to turn strangers into drinking companions. Furthermore, if someone offers you a taste of their food or pours you a drink, accepting graciously is the best way to experience what Kochi hospitality truly means.
Nearby Attractions
Kochi Castle (2-minute walk)
One of only twelve original castles remaining in Japan, Kochi Castle stands just steps from Hirome Market. Built in 1611 and rebuilt in 1753, it is one of only four castles in Japan where both the main tower and the residential palace survive in their original form. The panoramic views from the top floor extend across the entire city to the mountains beyond. Allow about 60 to 90 minutes for a thorough visit.
Sunday Market (adjacent)
Every Sunday since 1690, Kochi has hosted one of Japan’s oldest and largest street markets. Stretching approximately one kilometer along Otesuji Street — right next to Hirome Market — over 300 vendors sell fresh produce, street food, antiques, knives, plants, and handmade crafts. The market runs from around 6:00 AM to 3:00 PM and offers a fantastic complement to a Hirome Market visit. Arrive early for the best selection.
Harimayabashi Bridge (10-minute walk)
Perhaps Kochi’s most famous landmark, this small vermillion bridge is celebrated in the folk song “Yosakoi Bushi.” While the bridge itself is modest, the surrounding area is the city’s main transportation hub, and the nearby Obiyamachi Arcade offers excellent shopping.
Getting to Hirome Market
From Kochi Station
Take the Tosaden streetcar (tram) from “Kochi-ekimae” stop toward Ino. Transfer at “Harimayabashi” to the line heading toward Ino, and get off at “Ohashi-dori” stop. From there, it’s a 3-minute walk north. The total journey takes about 15 minutes and costs around ¥200. Alternatively, the walk from Kochi Station takes about 20 minutes through the city center.
From Outside Kochi
Takamatsu: JR limited express “Shimanto” or “Nanpu” to Kochi Station (about 2 hours 15 minutes).
Osaka: Highway bus to Kochi (about 5.5 hours) or fly to Kochi Ryoma Airport (about 50 minutes), then airport limousine bus to city center (about 30 minutes).
Tokyo: Fly to Kochi Ryoma Airport (about 80 minutes). Daily flights available from both Haneda and Narita airports.
Save on Transportation
The All Shikoku Rail Pass covers unlimited JR trains across all four Shikoku prefectures. If you’re exploring beyond Kochi, this pass offers excellent value.
Practical Information
Address: 2-3-1 Obiyacho, Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture 780-0841
Hours: Weekdays and Saturdays 8:00 AM to 11:00 PM; Sundays 7:00 AM to 11:00 PM (individual shop hours vary)
Closed: Approximately 6 to 7 full closure days per year (check the official website)
Budget: Expect to spend around ¥2,000 to ¥4,000 per person for food and drinks
Payment: Cash is strongly recommended. While some shops accept electronic payment, many are cash-only. An ATM is available just outside the market.
Parking: On-site parking available (approximately 180 spaces). Purchases of ¥3,000 or more per shop qualify for parking discounts (up to 2 hours total).
Facilities: Restrooms, nursing room, baby changing facilities available. The market is wheelchair accessible.
Where to Stay in Kochi
For the most convenient access to Hirome Market, stay in central Kochi near the Obiyamachi Arcade or Kochi Station area. Both locations are within easy walking distance of the market and connected by the Tosaden streetcar line.
Recommended Hotels
- JR Clement Inn Kochi — Convenient location near Kochi Station, easy access to Hirome Market
- Dormy Inn Kochi Natural Hot Spring — Business hotel with natural onsen, perfect for unwinding after a long day
- Tosagyoen Ryokan — Traditional ryokan overlooking the Kagami River with elegant Japanese hospitality
- Hotel Takasago — Classic hotel in central Kochi with warm local atmosphere
Frequently Asked Questions
Planning Your Visit
Q: Is Hirome Market suitable for non-drinkers?
Absolutely. While the drinking culture is a big part of the atmosphere, the food alone is worth the visit. Soft drinks, tea, and juice are available at every shop, and families with children are a common sight. The market is also an excellent spot for lunch without any alcohol at all.
Q: Can I visit Hirome Market on a weekday?
Yes, and in many ways, weekdays are ideal. The crowds are smaller, seats are easier to find, and you’ll encounter a higher proportion of locals — which means more opportunities for authentic interactions. The atmosphere is more relaxed but still lively.
Food and Logistics
Q: How much time should I spend at Hirome Market?
Plan for at least 90 minutes to try several dishes and soak in the atmosphere. Many visitors end up staying for 2 to 3 hours, especially once conversations start flowing. If you’re combining your visit with the Sunday Market and Kochi Castle, allocate a full morning or afternoon.
Q: Is Hirome Market suitable for vegetarians?
Unfortunately, options are limited. Most dishes feature seafood or meat, and dashi (fish stock) is used widely. A few shops offer salads, rice dishes, and tempura vegetables, but vegetarian visitors should set expectations accordingly. The ice kurin dessert shops are fully vegetarian-friendly.
Q: What’s the best strategy for ordering?
Secure seats first, then make a full lap of the market before ordering anything. This way, you’ll know what’s available and can plan your meal. Start with katsuo no tataki (it’s best when freshly seared), add one or two adventurous dishes like utsubo or whale, order gyoza early since they take time to prepare, and finish with ice kurin. Consequently, you’ll experience the full range of Kochi flavors in a natural progression.
Q: When is the “Tosa no Okyaku” festival?
This annual event, typically held over nine days in early March, transforms Kochi’s shopping arcades into massive open-air banquet halls. Tatami mats are laid out on the streets, and locals and visitors feast and drink together in a spectacular celebration of okyaku culture. If your travel dates are flexible, timing your visit to coincide with this festival is an unforgettable experience.
Hirome Market is more than a food hall — it’s the living heart of Kochi’s extraordinary social culture. In a country where reserved politeness is the norm, this corner of Shikoku has preserved something rare and beautiful: a tradition of radical openness, where sharing food and drink with strangers isn’t just accepted but celebrated. Pull up a chair, order a beer and some katsuo, and discover why Kochi’s people consider every meal an opportunity to make a new friend.
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