Six islands. Seven bridges. Sixty kilometers of open road stretched across one of the most beautiful inland seas on Earth. The Shimanami Kaido connects Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture, threading through the Seto Inland Sea on a route that has earned its place among the world’s greatest cycling roads — CNN once named it one of the seven best.
But the Shimanami Kaido is not only for cyclists. Each island along the route carries its own history, cuisine, and character. You can drive it, bus it, or simply pick one island and stay a while. The calm waters of the Seto Inland Sea, dotted with hundreds of small islands and crisscrossed by fishing boats, form a backdrop that never gets old — no matter how you choose to cross.
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What Is the Shimanami Kaido?
The Shimanami Kaido — officially the Nishi-Seto Expressway — is one of three routes linking Japan’s main island of Honshu to the island of Shikoku. It opened fully in 1999, and what sets it apart is simple: every bridge has a dedicated lane for pedestrians and cyclists. You can cross the sea under your own power. No other expressway in Japan offers that.
The six islands, running from Onomichi toward Imabari, are Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima, and Oshima. Each one feels different — quiet fishing villages on one, terraced citrus groves on another, ancient shrines on the next. Together, they compress the full character of the Seto Inland Sea into a single route.
The seven bridges themselves are worth attention. Suspension bridges, cable-stayed bridges, arch bridges — each uses a different engineering style, and each frames the island-scattered seascape in its own way. The views from the bridge decks, with ships passing below and islands stretching to the horizon, belong to the Shimanami Kaido alone.
Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Rental Bicycles
Public rental cycle terminals are positioned along the entire route, and you can start from either end. Sunrise Itoyama near Imabari and the Onomichi Port Rental Cycle Terminal are the two main hubs. Cross bikes, city bikes, and e-bikes are all available, and one-way rentals — drop off at the opposite end — are fully supported.
Advance reservations are strongly recommended. During Golden Week and the autumn travel season, bikes sell out fast.
Ready to ride? These guided cycling tours handle the logistics so you can focus on the scenery:
👉 Onomichi Shimanami Kaido Electric Bicycle 1-Day Tour — Perfect for first-timers who want e-bike comfort with a local guide.
👉 Shimanami Kaido Cycling Experience in Hiroshima — A flexible cycling experience starting from the Hiroshima side.
Shimanami Kaido Routes and Timing
The full route covers roughly 60 km. With rest stops and sightseeing, expect 8 to 10 hours for a complete crossing. Beginners can tackle shorter sections — the 20 km stretch from Imabari to Hakatajima, or the Onomichi to Innoshima segment — without committing to the full distance. Fit riders can finish in a single day, but a one-night, two-day plan is ideal if you want to actually explore the islands along the way.
Navigation is effortless. A blue line painted on the road surface — the “Blue Line” — guides you from start to finish. Bridge approaches use gradual ramps rather than steep climbs, though the cumulative elevation gain is real. Pace yourself.
E-Bikes
E-bike rentals have expanded significantly in recent years, and they are a game-changer. The electric assist flattens the bridge approach ramps and takes the sting out of hills, making the route accessible to riders of any fitness level. If sightseeing is your priority rather than athletic achievement, an e-bike is the way to go.
Island by Island: What to See
Oshima — The Gateway from Imabari
The first island you reach from the Imabari side, and home to the single best viewpoint on the entire route. Kiro-san Observatory sits at 307.8 meters above sea level, and the panorama from its summit — the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge sweeping across the strait, islands scattered to the horizon — is the defining image of the Shimanami Kaido. The observation deck was designed by architect Kengo Kuma. Come at sunset if you can.
The Murakami Kaizoku Museum tells the story of the Murakami pirates — a naval clan that controlled these waters during the medieval period. Their story gained wide attention after the novel Murakami Kaizoku no Musume won the Japan Booksellers’ Award in 2014. For a visceral taste of the strait’s power, board a tidal current experience boat and feel the Kurushima rapids up close.
👉 Kashima, Shimanami Kaido & Kurushima Strait Private Car Tour — Explore Oshima’s highlights with a private guide, including the tidal current experience.
Hakatajima — Salt and Strait
Hakatajima is famous across Japan for one product: Hakata no Shio salt. The Hakata Salt factory offers tours of the production process, and the shop on site sells salt-flavored soft-serve ice cream that has become a Shimanami Kaido staple — sweet, creamy, with a clean mineral finish.
Funaori Seto, on the island’s northern shore, is a narrow strait where currents run so fiercely that — according to local legend — they once snapped ships in half. An observation point lets you watch the churning water from a safe distance. In spring, Kaizan Park draws visitors with roughly 1,000 cherry trees in full bloom.
Omishima — The Island of the Gods
The largest island on the route, and the most spiritually significant. Oyamazumi Shrine is the head shrine of all Oyamazumi and Mishima shrines in Japan, and its treasure hall houses a remarkable collection of nationally designated swords, armor, and weaponry — more National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties in the arms-and-armor category than almost anywhere else in the country. The camphor tree in the shrine grounds, said to be roughly 2,600 years old, is staggering in scale.
Art lovers should seek out the Tokoro Museum Omishima and the Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture, both set into the island’s natural landscape. These are quiet, contemplative spaces — modern art and architecture surrounded by nothing but sea and green hills.
Ikuchijima — The Lemon Island
Ikuchijima is one of Japan’s major lemon-producing areas, and the citrus defines the island’s identity. Lemon orchards cover the hillsides, and lemon-flavored everything — cakes, lemonade, gelato — is available at every turn. Lemon Valley, where the groves meet the sea, has become one of the most photographed spots on the Shimanami Kaido.
Kosanji Temple, sometimes called “the Nikko of the West,” is a Pure Land Buddhist temple whose buildings are modeled after Nikko Toshogu’s ornate, polychrome style. But the real surprise sits on the hill above: Miraishin no Oka (Hill of Hope), a sculptural garden carved entirely from Italian marble. White terraces and towers rise against the blue sky — it feels less like rural Japan and more like the Mediterranean.
Scattered across the island, the “Island-Wide Museum” open-air sculpture project places contemporary artworks in unexpected corners. Hunting for them between cycling stops adds another layer to the ride.
Innoshima — Pirate Heritage and Hassaku
Once a stronghold of the Murakami pirates, Innoshima carries its maritime history proudly. Innoshima Suigun Castle is one of Japan’s only castle-shaped naval history museums, displaying weapons and artifacts from the Murakami clan’s centuries of dominance over these waters.
Innoshima is also the birthplace of hassaku, a distinctive Japanese citrus. The island’s signature sweet — hassaku daifuku, a mochi rice cake filled with hassaku segments — balances tart citrus against soft sweetness. It is available at shops around the island and worth seeking out.
Mukaishima — Where the Journey Begins
Mukaishima sits so close to Onomichi that you can see people walking on the opposite shore. The ferry crossing takes just a few minutes and costs roughly ¥100 — a working commuter boat, not a tourist attraction, which is exactly what makes it charming. The Onomichi skyline seen from the water, temple roofs climbing the hillside, is one of the route’s quiet highlights.
The island itself is mostly residential — rice paddies, quiet neighborhoods, coastal views from Tachibana Beach. As the first or last island on the route, it serves as a gentle introduction or a peaceful coda to the Shimanami crossing.
Food along the Shimanami Kaido
The Kurushima Strait’s powerful currents produce tai (sea bream) with exceptionally firm flesh. You will find it served as sashimi, in tai-meshi (sea bream rice), and as tai-shabu (hot pot) — every preparation highlights the quality of the fish. In Imabari, senzanki, a local style of fried chicken marinated in garlic and soy, is the go-to comfort food.
Each island has its own citrus-based specialty. Lemon cakes and fresh lemonade on Ikuchijima, hassaku daifuku on Innoshima, salt ice cream on Hakatajima — cycling between islands is also cycling between flavors. Around the fishing ports on Omishima and Hakatajima, small diners serve kaisendon (seafood rice bowls) and grilled fish sets that make for an ideal mid-ride refueling stop.
After a long day of cycling, nothing restores tired legs quite like a hot spring. Shimanami Onsen Kisuke no Yu, located near the Imabari end of the route, offers a perfect post-ride soak with ocean views.
👉 Shimanami Onsen Kisuke no Yu Hot Spring Experience
Getting There
From Imabari (Ehime Side)
From JR Imabari Station, buses reach Sunrise Itoyama — the Imabari-side starting point for cyclists — in about 20 minutes. Matsuyama to Imabari takes roughly one hour by JR Yosan Line or 90 minutes by highway bus.
From Onomichi (Hiroshima Side)
JR Onomichi Station is the gateway on the Hiroshima side. From Hiroshima Station, the JR Sanyo Line takes about 90 minutes; the Shinkansen reaches Shin-Onomichi Station in roughly 40 minutes. Bicycle rentals are available right at Onomichi Station.
By Car
The Shimanami Kaido functions as a regular expressway (Nishi-Seto Expressway), with interchanges on each island. Imabari IC to Nishi-Seto Onomichi IC covers about 60 km and takes roughly one hour under normal conditions. Driving is the most convenient way to explore the islands freely, though bridge tolls apply.
Highway Bus
Highway buses run between Imabari and Onomichi, and between Imabari and Fukuyama, providing a practical alternative for travelers without bicycles.
The JR Setouchi Area Pass covers rail travel across the wider region and can significantly reduce transport costs if you are combining the Shimanami Kaido with other Setouchi destinations.
Planning Your Trip
Best seasons: Spring (late March to May) and autumn (late September to November) offer the most comfortable cycling weather. Spring brings cherry blossoms and citrus flowers; autumn delivers mild temperatures and clear skies. Summer is hot — hydration and sun protection are essential — but the sea is at its most vivid blue. Winter is relatively mild in the Seto Inland Sea region, though strong winds on the bridges can make cycling tough on blustery days.
How long to spend: A full cycling crossing takes at least one day. With proper island exploration, a two-day, one-night trip is ideal. Drivers can cover the highlights in a single day, but the islands reward those who slow down — at least one overnight stay is recommended to absorb the pace of Seto Inland Sea life.
Luggage delivery: Cycling 60 km with a heavy bag is no fun. Same-day luggage forwarding services operate between Imabari and Onomichi, letting you ride light while your bags meet you at the other end.
Where to Stay
Guesthouses, minshuku, ryokan, and campsites are scattered across the islands. Cyclist-friendly accommodations — with bike storage, repair tools, and communal spaces — have become a Shimanami Kaido specialty. On the mainland, Imabari and Onomichi both offer a full range of hotels.
On the islands:
👉 GLAMPROOK Shimanami — Glamping on the Shimanami Kaido with ocean views. A unique way to spend a night between islands.
👉 Kadota Ryokan — Traditional Japanese inn experience on the islands.
👉 Yu-Rah — A relaxed island stay along the cycling route.
👉 SOIL Setoda — Stylish accommodation in the Setoda area on Ikuchijima.
Imabari side:
👉 Daichoso — Seaside inn near the Imabari end of the Shimanami Kaido.
👉 Imabari Kokusai Hotel — Full-service hotel in central Imabari, convenient for early starts.
Onomichi side:
👉 Yamamo Onomichi — Boutique stay in the heart of Onomichi’s hillside townscape.
👉 Onomichi Club — Stylish accommodation in Onomichi’s atmospheric port area.
👉 Seaside Villa SEEN — Waterfront villa with Seto Inland Sea views.
👉 Suminoe Ryokan — Traditional ryokan in Onomichi, close to the ferry terminal.
👉 Lemonsea Onomichi — Coastal accommodation with a citrus-themed twist.
Nearby Attractions
Imabari Towel Museum (Imabari City)
Imabari is Japan’s towel-manufacturing capital, and the Towel Museum showcases the craft with factory tours, towel art exhibitions, and a shop stocked with premium Imabari towels — arguably the best souvenir you can bring home from this region. It pairs naturally with a Shimanami Kaido visit.
Onomichi (Hiroshima Prefecture)
The Shimanami Kaido’s starting point on the Hiroshima side is a destination in its own right. Onomichi is a hillside port town with narrow lanes climbing between temples, cats lounging on stone walls, and one of Japan’s most atmospheric ropeways rising to Senkoji Park. The view from the top — Onomichi Channel, the islands beyond — is the perfect way to bookend a Shimanami crossing. And Onomichi ramen, with its rich soy-based broth and pork back fat, is a regional classic.
👉 Onomichi Senkoji Park & Shimanami Kaido Full-Day Guided Bus Tour — Combines Onomichi sightseeing with Shimanami highlights in a single day.
👉 Onomichi Port Terminal Half-Day Hiking Tour — Explore Onomichi’s hillside temple trail on foot.
For travelers with more time, a multi-day Setouchi itinerary ties the Shimanami Kaido into the wider region:
👉 3-Day Setouchi Tour: Hiroshima, Miyajima, Dogo & Shimanami Cycling — The complete Setouchi experience in three days.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do I need to be an experienced cyclist?
No. The route is well-paved, clearly marked with the Blue Line, and bridge approaches use gentle ramps. Beginners can tackle shorter island-hopping sections, and e-bikes remove most of the physical challenge. Many visitors who never cycle at home complete the Shimanami Kaido without difficulty.
Q: Which direction should I ride — Onomichi to Imabari or Imabari to Onomichi?
Both work well. Starting from Imabari means hitting the dramatic Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge first, while starting from Onomichi lets you begin with the charming ferry crossing to Mukaishima. Wind direction on the day may matter more than either starting point.
Q: Can I drive the Shimanami Kaido instead of cycling?
Absolutely. The expressway is open to cars, and each island has its own interchange. Driving gives you more flexibility to explore off-route spots and is the easier option for families or travelers with heavy luggage. Bridge tolls apply.
Q: What if it rains?
Light rain is manageable with proper gear, but the bridge decks become slippery and wind exposure increases. If heavy rain is forecast, consider rescheduling or switching to a car-based island tour. Rental shops can advise on conditions.
Q: Is the Shimanami Kaido suitable for children?
Shorter sections are very family-friendly, especially with e-bikes. The Onomichi–Mukaishima ferry crossing and a loop around one island make a manageable day trip for families. The full 60 km crossing is more suited to older children and teens with cycling experience.
The Shimanami Kaido’s Ehime-side starting point, Imabari, is just one hour from Matsuyama — making it easy to combine with a visit to Dogo Onsen, Japan’s oldest hot spring.
The Shimanami Kaido is not just a cycling route. It is a bridge — literally and figuratively — between two prefectures, six islands, and a way of life shaped by the Seto Inland Sea. Whether you pedal every kilometer, drive between islands, or simply sit on a harbor wall eating salt ice cream and watching the ferries pass, this crossing has a way of staying with you long after you have reached the other side.
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