Kan-onji: Giant Sand Coin, Sky Torii & Hidden Wonders of Western Kagawa

From a hilltop observatory in western Kagawa Prefecture, a giant ancient coin emerges from the white sand beach below. This is the Zenigata Sunae—a sand sculpture of the “Kan’ei Tsuho” coin measuring 122 meters long and 90 meters wide, created in 1633 and maintained by local residents for nearly 400 years.

“Those who see the Zenigata will enjoy health, longevity, and never want for money.”

This local legend still draws visitors to the observatory today. But the Kan-onji area offers far more than this famous sand art. A castle-like stone dam from the early Showa era. A “Sky Torii” gate overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. A “Sky Swing” perched atop the highest point of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Western Kagawa holds hidden wonders that most tourists never discover.

Zenigata Sunae: Edo-Period Sand Art Still Maintained Today

Legend and History

In 1633, Lord Ikoma Takatoshi of the Marugame Domain was scheduled to visit this area. According to legend, local residents created this enormous sand sculpture in a single night to welcome him. Whether it was truly completed overnight remains uncertain, but the sand art has definitely existed since the early Edo period.

The “Kan’ei Tsuho” was the most widely circulated coin throughout the Edo period. Choosing this design expressed both respect for the lord and wishes for prosperity among the people.

Ingenious Design

From the observatory, the Zenigata appears perfectly circular. In reality, it’s an ellipse—122 meters east to west and 90 meters north to south. This deliberate distortion was calculated so the shape would appear round when viewed from the hillside angle. It demonstrates the sophisticated surveying and geometric knowledge of Edo-period Japan.

The sculpture is made by mounding white sand from Ariake Beach. Twice yearly, in spring and autumn, hundreds of local volunteers gather for “Sunazarae”—the maintenance ritual of reshaping and preserving the sand art. This community tradition has continued unbroken for nearly 400 years, symbolizing local pride and unity.

The Observatory View

The best viewpoint is the observatory atop Mount Kotobiki in Kotobiki Park. A short walk from the parking area brings you to a panoramic view: Ariake Beach stretching below, the giant coin carved into white sand, and the calm Seto Inland Sea beyond. This view alone justifies a visit to Kan-onji.

Night Illumination

From sunset until 10 PM, the Zenigata is illuminated. The golden coin glowing against the darkness creates an entirely different, mystical atmosphere compared to daytime viewing. Consider combining sunset at Chichibugahama Beach with the Zenigata illumination afterward—both are within 20 minutes of each other.

Kan-onji Temple: Where Two Sacred Sites Share One Ground

The city takes its name from Kan-onji Temple, the 69th sacred site of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. This area is remarkable for having three pilgrimage temples in close proximity: Jinne-in (No. 68), Kan-onji (No. 69), and Motoyama-ji (No. 70).

Most unusual is that Jinne-in and Kan-onji share the same temple grounds—a rare “one temple, two sacred sites” arrangement. For pilgrims walking the entire Shikoku circuit, this offers the welcome convenience of completing two temple visits in one stop. Watching white-clad henro pilgrims with their walking staffs and conical hats is a quintessentially Shikoku experience.

The temple is just 5 minutes by car from the Zenigata observatory. If time permits, stop by to experience the atmosphere of the living Shikoku Pilgrimage tradition.

Honen-ike Dam: A Medieval European Castle in Rural Japan

Deep in the mountains of Kan-onji, an unexpected sight emerges: Honen-ike Entei—a stone-faced dam that looks like the walls of a medieval European fortress.

Japan’s Oldest Multiple Arch Dam

Completed in 1930, Honen-ike is Japan’s oldest multiple arch concrete dam. Standing 30.4 meters high with a crest length of 145.5 meters, its five connected arches resemble castle fortifications more than modern infrastructure. The dam is designated as a National Important Cultural Property.

This civil engineering heritage represents the fusion of cutting-edge technology of its era with traditional stone masonry craftsmanship using local materials. The texture of the stone facing covering the concrete creates an entirely different character from modern dams.

Early Showa Engineering Marvel

The dam was built to secure agricultural water for the Sanuki Plain. Kagawa Prefecture has historically suffered from water shortages due to low annual rainfall—a challenge that plagued local farmers for generations. The latest technology of the time was deployed to realize the long-held dream of reliable irrigation.

The design came from an engineer trained in America, but construction was carried out by local people. They hauled stones, poured concrete, and spent five years completing the project. The effort of those workers is inscribed in every carefully placed stone.

Visiting Information

The most beautiful view is from the downstream side, where you can appreciate the full array of arches and stone texture up close. The surrounding area is quiet mountain countryside with few tourists. In autumn, the combination of fall foliage and the dam’s medieval appearance is spectacular.

About 20 minutes by car from central Kan-onji. Parking available. Public transportation access is difficult, so a car or taxi is necessary.

Takaya Shrine “Sky Torii”: Gateway Above the Clouds

At the 404-meter summit of Mount Inazumi stands a torii gate overlooking the entire Seto Inland Sea. This is the “Tenku no Torii” (Sky Torii) at the main sanctuary of Takaya Shrine.

A Torii Gate in the Sky

Through the torii frame stretches a vast panorama: Kan-onji city below, the Hiuchi-nada Sea, scattered islands, and on clear days, the distant Seto Ohashi Bridge. Standing here feels like floating above the clouds—truly deserving of the name “Sky Torii.”

Takaya Shrine has ancient origins, recorded in the Engishiki document from the Heian period. With the main sanctuary at the summit, a middle shrine partway up, and a lower shrine at the base, it was historically a sacred site for mountain worship.

Access Options

Three ways to reach the summit:

By car: A road leads near the summit with parking available, then about 5 minutes on foot to the torii. However, the road is narrow with difficult passing points. On weekends and busy periods, shuttle buses may operate from the base.

On foot (main approach): About 45 minutes from the lower shrine to the summit via the traditional path, including over 270 stone steps. A serious hike, but rewarding for those with the stamina.

On foot (forest road): A gentler route taking about 60 minutes.

Early morning and sunset offer the most beautiful light, but weather can change quickly at the summit. Check forecasts and wear appropriate clothing.

Unpenji Temple “Sky Swing”: Soaring Above Shikoku

At 927 meters elevation, Unpenji Temple occupies the highest point of any temple on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. At its summit sits the viral sensation known as the “Tenku no Buranko” (Sky Swing).

Swinging Above the Clouds

From the swing installed in the summit plaza, you can see from the Sanuki Plain all the way to the Seto Inland Sea. Pumping your legs feels like launching into the sky itself—a sensation that truly earns the “Sky” name.

Unpenji is the 66th temple of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, historically known as one of the “henro-korogashi” (pilgrim-tumbling) difficult sections. In the past, pilgrims had to climb steep mountain paths to reach it. Today, a ropeway provides easy access to the summit.

Unpenji Ropeway

Spanning approximately 2,600 meters with an elevation gain of about 660 meters, this is one of Shikoku’s largest ropeways. The 7-minute aerial journey whisks you from the base station to the summit. The views from the gondola are spectacular, with the mountainside scenery changing with each season.

Bishamonten Hall and 500 Rakan Statues

The temple grounds include an observation hall housing a giant Bishamonten statue, plus rows of 500 Rakan (disciple) statues with expressive, individual faces. Beyond the swing, the temple offers significant religious and artistic interest. Autumn foliage season is particularly beautiful.

Visiting Information

The ropeway base station is about 30 minutes by car from central Kan-onji. Limited bus service operates from Kan-onji Station. Ropeway fare is ¥2,200 round trip (as of 2024). The summit is 5-6 degrees cooler than the plains, so bring a jacket.

Getting to Kan-onji

Access to Each Spot

Spot	From Kan-onji Station	Notes
Zenigata Observatory	10 min by car	Parking available
Kan-onji Temple	8 min by car	Near Zenigata
Honen-ike Dam	25 min by car	No public transport
Takaya Shrine (Sky Torii)	20 min by car	Summit parking available
Unpenji Ropeway	30 min by car	Limited bus service
Chichibugahama Beach	20 min by car	In neighboring Mitoyo City

Suggested Itineraries

Half-Day Course (by car)

Morning: Zenigata Observatory → Kan-onji Temple → Honen-ike Dam → Sanuki udon lunch

Full-Day Course (by car)

Morning: Takaya Shrine “Sky Torii” (while it’s cool)
Lunch: Sanuki udon
Afternoon: Zenigata Sunae → Honen-ike Dam
Evening: Chichibugahama Beach for sunset
Night: Zenigata illumination

Full-Day Course (including Unpenji)

Morning: Unpenji Ropeway → Sky Swing, 500 Rakan statues
Lunch: After descending
Afternoon: Zenigata Sunae → Takaya Shrine
Evening: Chichibugahama (if time permits)

Where to Stay in Kan-onji Area

Best Time to Visit

Spring (March-April): Cherry blossom season. Beautiful sakura throughout the area.

Summer (July-August): Hot in the lowlands, but Unpenji’s summit offers cool refuge.

Autumn (October-November): Ideal weather for sightseeing. Stunning fall foliage at Honen-ike Dam and Unpenji Temple.

Winter (December-February): Crisp, clear air offers the best visibility from observatories. Fewer tourists.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: Can I see the Zenigata sand art up close?

A: You can walk down to Ariake Beach near the sand sculpture, but from ground level you cannot tell what it depicts. Always view it from the Mount Kotobiki observatory—that’s where the magic happens.

Q2: Can I drive to the Sky Torii?

A: Yes, a road leads to a parking area near the summit. However, the road is narrow with difficult passing sections. If you’re not confident driving, consider hiking from the base (about 45 minutes) or using the shuttle bus service during busy periods.

Q3: How much is the Unpenji Ropeway and how long does it take?

A: Round-trip fare is ¥2,200 for adults. The ride takes about 7 minutes each way. Allow 2-3 hours total including time to explore the summit—the Sky Swing, 500 Rakan statues, and temple grounds.

Q4: Can I walk on Honen-ike Dam?

A: Yes, you can walk across the top of the dam. The best views of the arch structures are from the plaza on the downstream side. Interior access is not available.

Q5: Can I visit Chichibugahama Beach on the same day?

A: Absolutely, with a car. Kan-onji to Chichibugahama is about 20 minutes. A recommended plan: afternoon at Zenigata, sunset at Chichibugahama, then return for the Zenigata night illumination.

Q6: Can I see all the spots in one day?

A: Zenigata, Honen-ike Dam, the Sky Torii, and Chichibugahama can be combined in one full day. Adding Unpenji makes for a rushed schedule—consider visiting it on a separate day or prioritizing other spots.